So just how do you dry a wetsuit?

Here lately, I've found what I thought was a pretty easy way to dry my dive gear by hanging it from the shower curtain rod in the bathroom. It gets to drip into the tub, and I get to leave a small fan on to try to help pull out the damp air. So far, so good, right? Well, not so much. You see, when you hang a wetsuit, or a BCD, or any other piece of wet dive gear directly on the shower rod, part of it is over the  tub and drips in the right place, but other parts just hang over the edge and you get a nice, wet bathroom rug to deal with. Not cool. So, to help solve this dilemma, enter my old friend Schedule 40 PVC pipe. In this case, ¾ inch seems to be about the best for this application, and it even had another unrecognized benefit, which I'll explain later. Most people would just throw the pipe across the rod and onto the little shelf and call it a day, but then, that wouldn't be any fun. Remember, I went to WCU and in addition to a degree in CIS, you also get an honorary in Redneck Engineering. So, of course it has to be improved on.

See, most common shower rods are ¾ inch in outside diameter. That's where the selection of the pipe comes into play. Step one was to measure the distance from the shower rod to the wall, above that little ledge. In my case, that was 28". Cool, we cut a length of ¾ inch PVC pipe to fit. Now, I don't want to scratch the wall, so throw an end cap on one end, and let's start thinking about how to make the other end. If you just lay this up there, then it's going to slide around and run that risk of hearing a nice crashing sound while you're fast asleep. So, we get ourselves a nice ¾ PVC "T" joint and either pull out the saw or if you really wanna make it look nice, the router table (not the Cisco kind, either), and the sander. You want to cut about ¼ of the top bar part of the PVC T Joint so that you have something that looks like this. I like my redneck enterprises to look rather professional, so I just put a ¼ inch straight bit in the router, set the fence so that it would cut half way down, and off we run, getting a very nice cut that's just a little beyond the halfway point on the T joint. Next, move the fence and cut the little quarter round off just at the intersection point of the T joint. A quick pass over the sander belt and disc and you get something that looks like this:
Clip that holds the cross-bar in place.
The PVC "Clip" made from a ¾ inch PVC T
So far, so good. That has a little bit of spring to it so that will help when we assemble. Now, remember that we have 29" to cover with the PVC pipe, but we also have to remember that we have an end cap and a modified T joint on the end, so adjust your calculations accordingly (in my case, the "bar" became 26½", but YMMV). Assemble the parts, and then, "snap" the clip part (our modified T joint) to the shower bar and let the end cap rest on the ledge.
Drying rod assembled and in place
The whole thing in the shower and attached.

Now, you have a rod to hang things on. Since the clip is holding pretty tight against the shower rod, it's not going to slip, slide, or fall off, and you have a pretty stable place that will hold a wetsuit, BCD, and any number of other items. Next time, a wetsuit hanger with the rest of the PVC, and if I have time, a PVC tree for boots and gloves.


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